Florence, Italy: What and Where We Ate
And how I'm basically allergic to large, unnecessary crowds.
When I talk to people about our trip to Italy, almost everyone’s first reaction is, “Did you eat the most fabulous food?”
The short answer? Yes.
The food and drink in Italy was everything I hoped it would be, and eating Italian food for three weeks has changed my relationship with food forever I think.
If that sounds dramatic, it’s because it is. Food is key to Italian culture. And there are just some aspects of culture and food and slow cooking (and eating) that the Italians get so right. I think this is part of why many people outside of Italy (like myself) are obsessed with Italy. (And P.S. It’s not just about the delicious food. It’s about how they eat it.)
The Florentine Steak and a Favorite Restaurant
I do not eat red meat very often, but the Florentine steak is a popular “must eat” when visiting Florence, so… When in Roma Firenze…
Le Volte, a restaurant in the San Frediano neighborhood of Florence about ten steps from our AirBNB, was such a delight that we ate there twice. We probably would have eaten there a third time, but they were closed one of the nights we stayed in Florence.
The quote at the top of their menu says everything.
“I’m a man of simple tastes. I am always satisfied with the best.” (Oscar Wilde)
And after saying a few times, that we didn’t actually care if we ate an actual Florentine steak, Mike and I found ourselves sitting at an intimate, candlelit table outside of Le Volte our first night in Florence eyeing and taking in the aromas of the Florentine steak a young couple three tables away from us were enjoying.
“We’ll have what they’re having,” we found ourselves saying.
In case you’re eyeing our steak above and thinking, “That looks awfully raw,” let me explain. The steak comes rare on a hot iron griddle. You are able to cook the steak to your desired doneness. I promise it was close to one of the best steaks I’ve ever had. And the ambiance was perfetto!
My Quest for White Truffle
The night that Mike and I shared the Florentine steak above, we also shared a first course of tagliolini pasta with fresh black truffle. I am obsessed with truffle!
Le Volte also served the very rare and very expensive white truffle, but they ran out the first night we ate there. I was not worried, however, because we were scheduled to go truffle hunting with trained dogs AND AN ACTUAL TRUFFLE PIG while we were in Florence. This was my birthday present, something I planned well in advance of our trip. It was supposed to be a morning/afternoon of truffle hunting followed by a meal with the family who owns the land and runs the truffle hunt. I didn’t preplan much, but I did preplan this.
Then, our truffle hunt was canceled due to rain—the only day we had terrible weather our entire three weeks in Italy. It was not meant to be.
Another Great Restaurant and More Black Truffle
On our rainy day, saddened about the canceled truffle hunt, we set out to enjoy the day despite the disappointing weather.
After sleeping in (we deserved it after a very late night at a Florence soccer game and because it was pouring rain), we ventured out to find the perfect lunch spot.
And we succeeded.
We had climbed the Duomo of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore the day before (more on this in a separate post) and had decided we’d visit the Opera del Duomo Museum on this rainy day, so we searched for a restaurant close to the museum. This was a risky decision since we all know the closer you get to hot spots for tourists, the riskier food choices can be.
For the most part, we discovered there are few bad food choices in Florence.
This is when we discovered Antico Noè. There are two sides to Antico Noè: the butcher and sandwich shop, where you can order a quick sandwich or panino and drink to go, and the restaurant, where you can grab a table and enjoy a slower, more intimate lunch.
We were tired from the day before, disappointed our plans had been ruined, and were in the mood to soak in more of the slower paced culture. Plus it was raining with no signs of letting up.
We grabbed a table inside this rustic, yet inviting setting and enjoyed a long, leisurely lunch of pasta and wine. And yes, I was mourning the loss of the truffle hunt, so I ate more black truffle. It was delicious!
But still, the white truffle evaded me, and would continue to do so through all of Florence. I would have to continue my search when we ventured out into the hills of Tuscany (coming soon!).
The Famous Panino
If you’ve done any research about Florence, you’ve probably read that you must visit a butcher/panino shop to grab a panino (similar to panini) for lunch. And most people will at some point hear that they must, must, must visit the famous, if not infamous, All'antico Vinaio. Even our AirBNB host included All’antico Vinaio at the top of her list of recommendations.
To be honest, once she suggested All'antico Vinaio, we decided not to take any of her suggestions, because that one suggestion told us she was only sending us to the most popular of touristy spots. She didn’t even suggest Le Volte (above), and that lovely award-winning dinner spot is literally ten steps from the AirBNB’s front door.
Back to All'antico Vinaio… You can read all about how the neighborhood, where this sandwich shop got its start, has changed from a fully functional and livable Italian neighborhood complete with a butcher, fruit and vegetable stand, dry cleaner, and other necessities, to one long street of panino makers.
Let’s dig a little deeper… Antico Vinaio means “Old Wine Shop.” And this hole-in-the-wall panino shop, along with other similar “restaurants” around Florence, was supposed to be Italy’s version of fast food. In theory, you’d walk into All’antico Vinaio once upon a time, order a quick sandwich, grab a small bottle of wine form a help-yourself bucket along with a proper glass, then you would sit on a stool (one of very few in the tiny space) shoulder to shoulder with others from the neighborhood or people working in the nearby Uffizi Gallery, and you’d move on with your day.
These types of places are everywhere.
Thanks to my obsession with Italy, I already knew about the phenomenon that All’antico Vinaio became prior to arriving in Florence. So, on our way to another panino shop, we passed by the famous street and saw the never-ending line to get a panino.
I don’t know how long it would have taken to wait in this line, but I am seriously allergic to this type of crowd. I wanted to eat where Italians eat, and I would be shocked if there was a single Italian in this line. Also, you’re not getting a proper glass to drink your wine or a stool to perch upon at the end of this line.
You get your sandwich (which is probably really good, if I’m being honest) and a dirty street curb. (There were literally people sitting on the curb or in the doorways of neighboring buildings eating their sandwich.)
So after snapping a quick photo of this craziness, we set off to find a delicious panino and a glass of wine.
Lo SchiacciaVino was exactly what we wanted and needed. It was 12:30. We were due to visit the Uffizi Gallery in an hour. We needed a quick lunch so we’d have time to find where we were going and retrieve our tickets.
And let’s be honest… We were determined to prove you didn’t need to wait in line for an hour to get a simple, delicious, and fresh Italian sandwich.
We walked into the shop, got a table, ordered a sandwich and a glass of wine, and were back on the sidewalk in 45 minutes.
On another day, we arrived early before the lunch crowd and settled into a spot just outside. The first day we visited Lo Schiaccia Vino, the front area of the restaurant, both outside and inside, were packed. On this day we had the privilege of watching this area fill over the next fifteen minutes as we enjoyed a quick bite.
Final point: You can get a perfectly delicious panino at a plethora of butcher shops around Florence, each run by generations of single family. Lo Schiaccia Vino was an amazing spot for us—so amazing, we ate there twice. There are many other panino shops like this one. There’s only one where you have to wait about an hour and get to stand, leaning against a building or sitting next to a gutter while you eat.
Coffee and Croissants
My description of food in Florence would not be complete without describing my love for Italian breakfasts. And this is everywhere in Italy. Not just Florence.
You can walk into any bakery or coffee bar and grab an espresso, a cappuccino, or Americano for about €1.40. Add a croissant filled with chocolate or cream or some other sort of goodness for another €1.40. (I’m pretty sure I purchased a latte in Cincinnati last week for $6.90.)
I wake up some mornings, and I CRAAAAVVVE an Italian cappuccino. Crave it! And some of the croissants and other pastries we enjoyed? Perfetto!
Final Thoughts on Eating in Florence
When I post about the things we did and saw in Florence, you’ll get an idea of just how crowded the city was the second half of October, but for the most part we had expected this. It’s not ideal, but as far as restaurants go, we didn’t have any trouble finding places to eat the most amazing food without having to wait.
Here are Heather and Mike’s tips on eating in Florence:
Do not wait in line for a panino. Find another panino shop. (And try Lo Schiaccia Vino.)
If a restaurant has a flashy or large menu posted outside the restaurant in English, skip. That place is trying really hard to attract tourists.
If a restaurant has the wrong vibe, skip it. There will be another just down the way that’s better.
Venture a couple of blocks away from the piazza or main touristy area. The less English and more Italian you hear spoken among the patrons, the better.
Italy is filled with what we like to call “pocket restaurants.” They’re small, shotgun style rooms or buildings with limited seating, but the food is perfetto!
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Heather- Thanks so much for sharing this photo journal into everything food related. It’s really giving me goals for some truffle meals! 🙌🏼